Stocking Up

Look up "stock" in the dictionary and among the definitions you might find "water in which meat, fish, etc. has been boiled, used in soups." Oh, but it is so much more than that! This liquid essence is the base on which many a fine recipe is built—in fact, the French term for stock, fond, translates literally as "foundation."

When choosing ingredients, keep in mind what you'll be using the stock for.

Opportunities for using fish stock in your kitchen are many. First, a good fish stock is the beginning of a great soup. Just toss in whatever you have at hand—thinly sliced vegetables, small pieces of fish, chopped fresh herbs, a handful of vermicelli noodles—sprinkle some chopped green onion on top and voilà! Stock also makes a great addition to chowder and other fish soups and stews. Throughout the rest of your kitchen repertoire fish stock will add character to sauces, pasta dishes, legumes, poached fish—the list goes on.

Despite being a culinary cornerstone, fish stock really is a snap to make and not nearly as elaborate as you might think. The most elementary fish stock is little more than fish bones simmered in water. From this beginning a variety of additions are possible, such as:

It's as easy to make a gallon as a pint, so make plenty and freeze it for future use.

• Leeks, chopped
• Carrot, sliced
• Fennel bulb, sliced or fennel seeds
• White wine
• Garlic, crushed
• Ginger root, sliced
• Herbs such as tarragon, basil or chervil
• Coriander leaves (cilantro) or seeds
• Orange or lemon peel

Whatever ingredients you choose, the technique is simple and, unlike its cousins made with chicken and beef bones, fish stock cooks quickly. In fact, fish stock should simmer for no more than 20 minutes to avoid imparting bitter flavors from the bones.

When choosing ingredients, keep in mind what you'll be using the stock for. If it will serve as the backbone of a soup, you want the stock to have plenty of flavor, so add a variety of aromatic herbs and vegetables. If you will be using the fish stock as an ingredient in a sauce or soup, go easy on the added flavorings so it doesn't overpower the recipe. Likewise, if you will be storing some or all of the fish stock for future use, season it very lightly if at all to leave you freedom in later seasoning.

Freezing the fish stock in cubes is another good trick.

It's as easy to make a gallon as a pint, so make plenty and freeze it for future use. You'll be glad you have it. To conserve freezer space, first reduce the stock to freeze in its more concentrated form. When stock is reduced the seasoning becomes intensified, so season very lightly or not at all. After the stock is strained, pour it into a clean saucepan and simmer over moderate heat until reduced by the desired amount (about half is a good start).

Freezing the fish stock in cubes is another good trick. Pour the cooled fish stock into ice cube trays and freeze until solid. Once frozen, pop out the stock cubes and put them in a resealable plastic bag or other airtight container. For larger quantities of stock, an airtight plastic container is best, allowing room for the stock to expand as it freezes.

Fish bones and heads are the classic basis of fish stock, but in this age of ready-to-go fish fillets and steaks they are not so easy to come by. Your local fishmonger should be able to provide you with bones and/or heads on request, however. If you are unable to procure bones, buy a pound or two of inexpensive white fish fillets such as pollock or whiting, cut into chunks and use it instead.

Next time you've got a pound or two of fresh shrimp to shell, don't throw those shells in the garbage but instead toss them in a pot.

Whether using fish bones or flesh, avoid fatty fish such as mackerel which impart overly strong flavor and make the stock oily. Snapper, sole, haddock and flounder are among the best choices. Salmon's suitability for the stock pot is a point of debate because of its distinct flavor, but for hearty soups or chowders it can be delicious. You be the judge.

If you use firm, thick fish fillets rather than fish bones to make stock, the fish will be cooked and ready to use in assorted recipes. Consider flaking the fish, mixing it with chopped onion, a whole egg, breadcrumbs and spices to make fish cakes. Or you can add the fish to soup or make a sandwich filling, among other possibilities.

And the same stock principle can be applied to shrimp. Next time you've got a pound or two of fresh shrimp to shell, don't throw those shells in the garbage but instead toss them in a pot. Add sliced shallot, herbs and peppercorns with water to cover, simmer 15-20 minutes and you'll have a delicious shrimp stock.

Recipes:

• Basic Fish Stock