Valentine's Day
Dinner for Two

Menu:

5-Spice Shrimp
Tarragon Halibut in Parchment Chocolate Fruit Fondue

Despite all the restaurants around town with the best intentions of providing a romantic setting and delicious meal on Valentine's Day, nothing beats the quiet privacy of a dinner at home. "No time to cook," you say, "…..and the mess!" Besides, you want a meal that will win your date's attentions with gastronomic prowess (even if you have none). Take heart! You two lovebirds can enjoy a delectable meal prepared in no time at all, with minimal cleanup and more time to gaze into each other's eyes. Best of all, you can lick each other's fingers without the maitre d' snickering behind you. A dry champagne would be the perfect partner for the amorous meal.

You can make the halibut parchment packages up to 2 hours in advance and leave them on the baking sheet in the refrigerator. The first course takes 5 minutes to cook. Toss the halibut in the oven when you sit down for the shrimp and it'll be ready when you are. Likewise, the chocolate fondue and dippers take just minutes to prepare and can be done a couple of hours in advance. Simply keep the chocolate warm in the double boiler and the dippers chilled until ready.

Adding Sparkle to Your Valentine's Dinner

Candlelight, soft music and sparkling wine: the trinity of romance.

The first two don't present a problem for most folks; they're thrown for a loop by the third.

Which wine? How much to spend? Should you pay more than the price of a CD in a bottle of bubbly? Should you invest as much as your car payment?

Dry Champagne, whether the real thing from France or a substitute, is a traditional accompaniment to festive and romantic meals, from appetizers to desserts. And our Valentine's Day menu of spicy shrimp, baked halibut and fruit-filled dessert, seems ideal for sparkling wine.

Real Champagne is definitely a luxury item and can cost a bundle. But you shouldn't spend beyond your level of appreciation. A personal favorite is non-vintage (gold label) Veuve Clicquot, about $30. But if you can't taste the difference between Tott's and Dom Perignon, stick with the less expensive stuff. There are some very good domestic sparkling wines on the market.

Several California growers are outposts of French Champagne houses: Domaine Chandon, Domaine Mumm and Roederer are just some of the names.

There is a chardonnay-based sparkling wine from Domaine Ste. Michelle, Blanc de Blanc, regularly priced around $9 and often available for less. It's not vintage-dated, a practice we applaud, as the blend of vintages often improves the final product.

However, our very favorite wine for Valentine's Day may be a bit hard to find. It's one of ten Beaujolais crû wines named for the village where the grapes were grown. Of course, you could substitute a simpler Beaujolais Villages, or the more readily available wine from the village of Fleurie, a lovely spot with a delicious wine that tastes like ripe cherries. But the one we seek out comes from the most northerly of the villages and it has an element of finesse and elegance that's perfect for Valentine's Day. The name says it all: Saint Amour.

Recipes:

• 5-Spice Shrimp
• Tarragon Halibut in Parchment
• Chocolate Fruit Fondue