Cutting Calories

How to Cook Fish

HEY, DON’T RUN AWAY IN FEAR!! FISH IS EASY TO COOK, despite what you might have been told. It is one of the easiest and most versatile foods you could want for a quick and healthy middle-of-the-busy-workweek meal at home. In the same time it takes to boil a handful of pasta and steam some vegetables, you can have a delicious seafood recipe on the table—the best of all possible fast foods.

But exactly how are you going to cook that piece of fish? Possibilities are endless, but for dinner tonight, you just need one idea, you need it now and you need it to be easy. Well, here’s Simply Seafood to the rescue!

Using the three basic cooking methods that require little or no added fat—steaming, poaching and broiling—we’ve put together easy-to-follow guidelines for success, with pictures to boot! These basic techniques serve as building blocks for an endless number of recipes. Once you have these basics down, the sky’s the limit! In each case, we provide you with a pictorial how-to from start to finish and an easy recipe that exemplifies the technique. We guarantee that if you follow these guidelines, you’ll love the results!

Seafood for Steaming:

• All fish fillets or steaks (avoid meaty fish such as tuna and swordfish)
• All shellfish (especially scallops and shrimp)
• Whole fish (as large as steamer can accommodate)

Steaming Techniques

For steaming, fish is set on a rack over (not touching) boiling water in a covered pan. The steam circulates around the fish and evenly cooks it with moist heat. Because the vapors attain high temperatures and come in direct contact with the fish, it is a quick cooking method. No added fat is needed, so steaming is one of the most health-conscious methods possible. And moisture from the steam also helps to maintain the succulence of the fish. You can infuse some delicate flavors into the fish by adding aromatic ingredients to the water such as ginger slices, crushed garlic, fresh herbs or onions.

Asian-style bamboo steamers are inexpensive and ideal for steaming fish. You don’t even need a wok to use these steamers, although the slanted sides of a wok help the steamer to sit firmly and securely. If you don’t have a wok, choose a pan over which the steamer fits snugly. If the pan is too small or too large the steam will escape through the gaps and the food will not cook properly. These bamboo racks can be stacked, allowing you to steam two layers of seafood at the same time.

You can also steam fish using an expandable steamer basket or even a wire cake rack that fits inside your pan base. Be sure that the rack will hold the fish at least an inch above the water level so that the boiling water does not come in direct contact with the fish. Canning jar rings or small tuna cans with both ends removed are a couple of household items that can be used as supporters for the rack.

One benefit of steaming is that it is equally effective for thick and thin pieces of fish, and even whole fish. Because the fish or fish pieces are arranged on a heatproof plate before steaming, there is no need to turn or otherwise move the fish and therefore little risk of potentially fragile pieces breaking apart in cooking. It is also very easy to steam accompanying vegetables directly on top of or alongside the fish. Virtually any fish or shellfish can be steamed, but meaty fish such as tuna and swordfish are less suited to this cooking method. As with other methods, you can count on about 10 minutes of cooking time per inch thickness of the fish, but because steam heat is so hot, it may be a little less.

HOW TO STEAM

1. Choose a broad, shallow pan with a steaming rack that fits snugly. Be sure you also have a lid that will fit snugly over the steaming pan.
   


2. Arrange the fish fillets on a heatproof plate that easily fits into the steamer. Fold thin tail ends under so fillets are of even thickness.
   


3. Sprinkle the fish with seasonings and aromatic vegetables as called for in the recipe.
   


4. Bring the water to a boil in the steamer, set the plate of fish on the steamer rack, put the rack over the boiling water and cover tightly with the lid.
   


5. Steam the fish until it is opaque through to the center of the thickest part. Transfer the fish and vegetables to individual plates and serve.
   

Poaching Techniques

IN POACHING, THE FISH IS SUBMERGED IN SIMMERING LIQUID. The liquid can be plain water, or it can be mixed with seasonings, herbs, fish stock or other aromatic additions. The best pan for poaching is broad and shallow rather than narrow and tall, so the fish pieces can lie flat in an even layer.

For poaching a few small fish steaks or fillets, a large skillet or sauté pan with 2 1/2-inch sides may be sufficient. For large whole fish, there are long, slender fish poachers made just for that purpose, from smaller ones for 5- or 6-pound fish to quite large poachers for fish up to 12 or 15 pounds. These poachers can be inexpensive and versatile, but are not necessary for poaching in smaller quantities.

Be sure that you have enough liquid in the pan so that when you add the fish or fish pieces, they will be fully submerged. After a little practice, you will be able to “eye” the amount of liquid needed. Until then, you can either submerge the raw fish in the cold liquid before it is heated, or you can measure the fish at its thickest point and put enough liquid in the pan to measure twice that depth.

It’s important to remember that “poaching” is not the same thing as ”boiling.” Rapid boiling will damage the fish as it cooks, breaking it into pieces and cooking it unevenly. The poaching liquid should be brought to a boil before the fish is added, then heat is reduced so that the water is just simmering—the surface of the liquid quivering, with the occasional bubble breaking the surface. Add the fish to the simmering liquid and begin. Remaining cooking liquids, especially if they included wine, fish stock or herbs, are delicious and can be strained to use as a soup base, or boiled and reduced to use for a sauce.

Most any fish—whether whole, filleted or steaked—can be poached. Very thin and delicate fish pieces, however, take special care so that they do not break apart while cooking. You are best off choosing fish pieces that are at least 1/2 inch thick for this cooking method. Likewise, save those meaty fish such as tuna, swordfish or shark for broiling or grilling, as poaching does not suit their meaty flesh.

Seafood for Poaching:

• Scallops, shrimp, squid, shucked oysters
• Whole fish (as poacher size allows)
• Fish fillets and steaks (avoid meaty fish such as tuna, swordfish, shark)

HOW TO POACH

1. Combine the water and other ingredients in a broad, shallow pan as called for in the recipe.
   


2. Bring the liquid to a rolling boil, then reduce the heat so that the liquid simmers and add the fish.
   


3. Simmer until the fish is opaque through the thickest part (cut to test). Transfer the fish to a plate, cover to keep warm and set aside.
   


4. Ladle a portion of the cooking liquid through a strainer into a small pan and boil to reduce by half. Add flavorings as directed.
   


5. Arrange the fish onto individual plates, spoon the sauce over the fish and serve.
   

Broiling Techniques

BROILED FISH IS COOKED UNDER ONE HEATING ELEMENT IN THE OVEN. The broiler should be fully pre-heated before the fish is put in to cook, and the oven rack should be adjusted so that the fish is about 3 inches from the heat. The close, intense heat of broiling cooks fish quickly but also requires some attention so that the fish cooks evenly without drying out. If your oven rack’s highest position does not put the fish close enough to the heat, set an inverted rimmed baking sheet on the rack and put the baking sheet with fish on top of that.

The first consideration is the fish: fillet or steak pieces that are thick enough to hold up to the heat but not so thick that the interior doesn’t cook. Generally 1/4- to 1 1/4-inch-thick fish pieces can be easily broiled with good results. Shrimp, scallops and squid can also be broiled, threaded on skewers to simplify turning and transferring to plates. Firm fish such as salmon or halibut can be cut in cubes and skewered also.

Fish with delicate texture and mild flavor will be most susceptible to drying out, because they have less natural oil to keep the flesh moist as it cooks under high heat. For these fish, consider marinating before cooking. Marinades help maintain moistness and at the same time can enhance the flavor of milder fish. They often have a little oil in them, however, which lessens the low-fat benefits somewhat.

Full-flavored fish such as salmon, Chilean sea bass, bluefish, tuna, shark and swordfish are some of the best candidates for broiling because they have higher oil content and hold up well to the direct heat without drying. They can be broiled plain with great success, or they can be marinated beforehand to embellish the flavors.

Broil fish first on one side until lightly browned and opaque about 1/3 into the fish. Then turn to finish cooking as stated in the recipe. Most fish will be cooked until opaque through the thickets part, but fish such as tuna are often cooked to “medium-rare”, with some translucence remaining in the center. If you are using a marinade, baste the second side before continuing. For easy cleanup, line your broiler pan or baking sheet with a piece of foil and lightly oil it before adding the fish.

Seafood for Broiling

• Fish fillets or steaks 1/4 to 1 1/4 inches thick
• Shrimp, scallops, squid (preferably skewered)

HOW TO BROIL

1. If using a marinade, combine the ingredients in a shallow dish and stir to mix.
   


2. Add the fish pieces to the marinade and turn to evenly coat. If not using a marinade, you may choose to lightly season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper.
   


3. Set the oven rack 3-4 inches below the element and preheat the broiler. Line the broiler pan or baking sheet with foil and lightly oil the foil.
   


4. Remove the fish from the marinade, allowing excess to drip off. Arrange the fish pieces on the broiler pan, allowing at least one inch between.
   


5. Broil the fish for a few minutes, as directed in the recipe. Turn the fish and spoon on any reserved marinade, if using.
   


6. Continue broiling until the fish is just opaque through the thickest part (cut to test). Transfer to individual plates and serve.
   

Recipes:

• Poached Halibut with Lemon Herb Sauce
• Steamed Fish with Celery and Orange
• Zesty Broiled Salmon Steaksl