Potatoes & Seafood

A Hot New Pair

Anyone who has ever enjoyed an order of hot, crispy fish and chips sprinkled with malt vinegar or dunked into creamy tartar sauce doesn’t need to be reminded that fish and potatoes are good together. The flavors of the sea and the earth mingle on your taste buds and inspire visions of hard work and fresh air. A carefully prepared dish of great seafood and potatoes can be, for many, the perfect meal.

Unfortunately, fish and potatoes are such an agreeable match that we can easily take the duo for granted. A lax cook will pile a cluster of fries or a scoopful of steamed and parsley-specked spuds next to something that once swam and then wait for applause. Luckily for those with selective palates, chefs are finding new inspiration in the “gourmet” or “heirloom” potato varieties now available in all shapes, colors and sizes. Potatoes are shedding their reputation as a ubiquitous starch that cheaply fills gaps both on the plate and in the stomach and are now creatively united with seafood in glorious dishes. The adaptability of both ingredients offers cooks the opportunity to use fish and potatoes as a perfectly primed canvas on which to create mouth-watering masterpieces.

Just as a thick, meaty swordfish steak should be handled differently from a delicate fillet of trout, it is important to appreciate the unique flavors and textures in potato varieties and cook them with individualized attention. I will never forget being reprimanded at cooking school for a sloppy potato preparation. When I replied to the stern director that it was “just potatoes” and not as worthy of my effort as the elaborate entrée, she shook her head in frustration. She explained that the noblest aspiration of a cook should be to make a simple baked potato as glorious and memorable as the fanciest dish. It was an invaluable lesson.

Potatoes are categorized by starch content and texture. Compare the high-starch, low-water Idaho baker with its crumbly, white flesh to a tighter-celled, waxy new potato and its excellent shape retention and al dente smoothness. When selecting the right potato to serve with fish, think about flavors, colors and contrast. Soft fillets of sole served with fluffy mashed potatoes might be more suitable for a nursing ward than the family dinner table. A better accompaniment for delicate fish fillets would be a firm, well-textured and boldly flavored potato variety—perhaps chunks of Yukon Gold, pan-fried crisp and seasoned with herbs and pepper. A firm fish steak, like tuna, shark, or sturgeon, is nice with a spoonful of soft, creamy potatoes. While common varieties are available year-round, look for perfect new potatoes in the spring and be sure to experiment with local specialty varieties at farmers’ markets in late summer and fall.

While it would be a crime to pass up a plate of killer fish and chips in the name of fashion, thank goodness there are now such wonderful alternatives! Dig into some of these tasty recipes, which offer a new appreciation for blending delicious things from the land and the sea.

A Note on Green Potatoes

Potatoes that have a greenish color just under the skin contain the alkaloid solanine which is toxic in large amounts. It is easily removed by trimming the skin and removing the green spots as well as any sprouted eyes.

Potato Varieties

Russets
The most widely used potato in America. Also known as the Idaho or Burbank, russets have rough brown skin and fluffy white flesh when cooked. They are ideal for baking and mashing and for crispy French fries.

Round Whites
Most popular in the eastern U.S., round white potatoes have smooth tan skin and slightly waxy texture. They are considered and all-purpose potato. Round whites hold their shape well and are good for salads, roasting and steaming. Young round whites are sold as “new” potatoes.

Round Reds
Popular in the Midwest and Central states, round reds are the most popular “new” potato, and they are buttery and delicious when mature. Round reds are another all-purpose potato and have a firm texture that holds its shape well when cooked. The red skins are attractive as well as tasty, so go ahead and leave them on.

Long Whites
Primarily grown in California, but available almost everywhere, long whites are a tender all-purpose potato with white to tan speckled skin. Great for scalloped potatoes and gratineed dishes, they have a smooth texture that is also nice in soups and chowders.

Yellow-fleshed
The most popular type of potato in Europe, they are quickly becoming an American favorite. These sweet, buttery all-purpose potatoes are a little more seasonal, at their best in late summer and early fall. You’ll find them by different names, including Yukon Gold or Yellow Finn. Don’t miss these tasty potatoes for rich preparation, mashing and sautéing.

Blue and Purple
About the only naturally blue food, these ancient potato varieties are quite a novelty. Though grown in the U.S., blue potatoes are sometimes called “Peruvian potatoes” in honor of their origins. The brilliant color fades slightly with cooking but still makes interesting salads and ornamental garnishes. Take care not to overcook these potatoes, as they will quickly disintegrate and turn thin and crumbly.

Fingerling
One of the most fashionable spuds, fingerlings are immature versions of a number of different potato varieties. Sometimes almost too authentically digit-shaped, these sweet, nutty, waxy and diverse potatoes are delicious when steamed, roasted or sliced into chunks and fried until crispy.

Recipes:

• Gnocchi
• Gnocchi and Shellfish in Parsley Sauce
• Potato Crusted Sea Bass with Chipotle Vinaigrette
• Smoked Salmon Hash
• Swordfish, Spinach and Potato Salad