Simply Seafood®

The Fearless Guide to Fresh Herbs and Fish

A spice cupboard can be a scary place, a bewildering clutter of tiny bottles and ancient tins with familiar names and indistinguishable greenish contents. Perhaps you should be brave and sprinkle with abandon. You sniff something that smells like old hay and decide that isn’t such a good idea. What was that delicious green stuff at the restaurant?

After consulting vague and complicated herb charts or getting distracted by a guidebook that digresses into Shakespearean herb sonnets and recipes for healing poultices, you give up and reach for that generic bottle labeled “herbs for fish.”

When thinking herbs, think fresh.

Even great cooks have secret herb anxieties. What would be best to use? How much? When? And don’t these bottles have expiration dates?

It’s time to take the mystery out of cooking with herbs. First, forget that treacherous cupboard and find a culinary oasis in the lush greenery of the produce aisles and your own garden. When thinking herbs, think fresh. As Richard Olney wrote in his wonderful book Simple French Food, “One must, above all, not think of all those little canisters of powdered condiments, vaguely peppery and dusty to the nose, as herbs.”

Fresh herbs are alive with essential aromatic oils, vitamins and vivid color. They transform even the simplest fish dishes into fresh and interesting centerpieces, all without adding fat or salt. Try an A/B comparison, seasoning a broiled fillet of fish: a teaspoon of fresh cilantro dazzles the palate; a teaspoon of dried cilantro is flaky and green, and that’s about it.

Dried herbs work well in long-simmered soups and sauces, but they must be top-quality products that have been stored in a cool, dark spot and replaced annually. For naturally quick-cooking seafood, the tender, flavor-packed leaves of fresh herbs are vastly superior.

Having pots of herb plants at your fingertips also gives you every opportunity to dress up your plates with a lovely, fragrant and edible garnish.

But aren’t fresh herbs expensive? Not necessarily. We highly recommend that you grow your own. If that prospect tempts you to creep back to the spice cupboard, take heart. Even the brownest of thumbs can grow herbs on a window ledge or planter box. Many varieties love neglect. Growing herbs is the easiest gardening of all: dirt, seeds, a little water and a smattering of sunshine is all you need, and soon you will have plenty of inexpensive, accessible ingredients. Having pots of herb plants at your fingertips also gives you every opportunity to dress up your plates with a lovely, fragrant and edible garnish.

If you’re still not convinced, most good supermarkets carry selections of fresh herbs—another indication of their popularity.

When cooking with fresh herbs, it’s important to remember that the volatile oils are what taste and smell so good. These natural oils are delicate (thus the word “volatile”) and diminish with exposure to heat, air, light and time. To maximize these valuable oils and maintain the lovely color of fresh herbs, you must minimize their exposure to these elements.

Handle herbs as you would fresh flowers. Trim the stems and keep them in a glass of water if they are to be used within a day or tow. For extended storage, wrap them in damp paper towels, enclose in a plastic bag and keep in the crisper drawer of the fridge.

Chop herbs with a big, sharp knife just before you use them, and take care when exposing them to heat. That doesn’t mean that you can’t simmer fresh herbs in your favorite pot of gumbo or clam sauce. Just remember that some herbs stand up to heat better than others.

The rules of thumb are:

If an herb smells “green” and bright, and the leaves and stems are tender—dill or chives, for example—stir into the finished sauce or sprinkle on just before serving. These fragile varieties will rapidly discolor and lose their flavor and charm.
If an herb smells spicy and strong, and the leaves and stems are tough or slightly woody—oregano, thyme or rosemary, for example—it will cook well. These bolder herbs add depth of flavor to simmered dishes and marinades. For maximum flavor, add freshly chopped herbs again at the end of cooking.

If you have an herb that falls somewhere in the middle, such as parsley or basil, it will perform nicely either way.

What about that tricky matter of herb selection? Jerry Traunfeld, chef at The Herbfarm in Woodinville, Washington, has developed a national reputation for his canny ability to match fresh herbs and food. His advice for pairing seafood and herbs is simple: “Follow your nose. Smell the herb and then picture it with most seafoods. The most important rule is that it is hard to make a terrible choice.”

Still, he cautions that herbs should complement the food rather than compete with it. Would this thyme taste good with the trout? Would the savory deepen the flavor of the mussels? And while Traunfeld is known for his herbal adventurism, such as Douglas fir sorbet and nettle or lovage soufflé, he likes traditional herbs for seafood—dill, parsley, chervil, thyme and chives. Sometimes sage and oregano work will for Italian- or Spanish-influenced recipes. He avoids sweet, fruity or very floral herbs like anise, hyssop, lavender or scented geranium. They may be trendy, but they are not, he feels, right for fish.

At Arrows restaurant in Ogunquit, Maine, the head gardener meets daily with the chef, reporting the ripe and ready items, including herbs. Chef/owner Clark Frasier then writes the menu. Frasier likens herb pairing to wine pairing. “The herb should enhance the dish, or add a zing, but not mask or overwhelm the seafood.” He also uses the classic herbs for seafood, but his extensive travels in Asia inspire him as well. For instance, he steams trout after filling the cavity with whole sprigs of fresh mint, basil, cilantro and lemongrass. Occasionally he will use the “big, strong herbs” like oregano or marjoram to add a meat-like essence to a more intense fish such as tuna or swordfish.

Remember: it’s pretty hard to ruin a dish by adding fresh herbs.

Creating a tasty blend of herbs can add to the challenge. Again, there are no fast rules, but Southern California restaurateur John Sharpe, (The Topaz Café at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana) has a few suggestions. “Blending herbs sounds simple,” Sharpe says, “but it isn’t. Some strange things happen when you blend herbs.” He warns against combining especially pungent, contrasting flavors. For instance, the woodsy, wild taste of rosemary fights the tickling, tangy flavor of dill. Herb mixes are best when they blend a peppery herb with a citrus, floral or sweet variety and use a simple base such as parsley to marry the flavors.

One of his particularly pleasing combos for strong-flavored seafood mixes cilantro, sage and oregano with the sting of southwestern chiles. Or for milder seafood, try thyme, bay and oregano blended with onions, garlic and black pepper.

When questioned about quantities, the chefs waffle. “It depends on what you want,” says Clark Frasier. “Use a lot to impart the flavor into the meat. You can’t do that with just a sprinkling. I guess it depends on time and contact.” Frasier uses handfuls of whole herbs if he wants a big herb taste in a short time, or he infuses oils with fresh herbs to add a gentler flavor to marinated dishes.

Jerry Traunfeld advises generosity. “People are timid using fresh herbs. If they want a dish to taste of chervil, they should add a good amount, not just a tiny sprig.” But, concerned about contradicting himself, he again warns against overpowering delicate fish with such assertive herbs as tarragon or rosemary.

All good advice, but hardly precise measurements! Try using three to four times as much fresh herb as dried, (Rosemary is the exception: use only twice as much fresh as dried.) The herbs in the produce section come in conveniently sized bundles that are often just enough to add a great herb taste to a recipe, or maybe two recipes with the stronger varieties. A teaspoon of chopped herb per person is not excessive for the milder choices. A couple of teaspoons of the strong, peppery or lingering herbs such as tarragon, sage or rosemary is usually fine for a family-sized recipe.

Remember: it’s pretty hard to ruin a dish by adding fresh herbs. As you gain confidence and venture further into the joys of cooking with fresh herbs, your understanding of that spice cupboard will grow. You’ll see how those little slivers in the jar marked “thyme” may still carry the scent of gardens gone. You might even find a use for the parsley flakes. But here’s a prediction: that museum of dead and dusty herbs is going to begin looking more lonely than scary. You wont’ be visiting much anymore.

Classic Herb Blends

Recipes often refer to traditional herb blends which can be found pre-made in stores, but they are also very easy to make at home. Here are a few for the most popular varieties.

Bouquet Garni is a bundle of herbs used to season stock, soups and stews, usually consisting of a bay leaf (dried or fresh), a few thyme sprigs and parsley stems, and sometimes a short piece of leek green or celery stalk. Tied together with string, the herbs are easily retrieved to discard before serving.
Fines Herbes is a combination of delicately flavored French herbs added right at the end of cooking, usually a blend of parsley, chives, chervil, thyme and tarragon. Mint is sometimes added.
Herbes De Provence are, quite simply, the “herbs of Provence,” in southern France. Often found dried in charming terra-cotta jars but also excellent fresh, the mixture usually includes oregano, thyme, rosemary, marjoram, savory and often fennel seeds and lavender.
Persillade is a simple combination of chopped fresh parsley and garlic that is quickly sautéed and added at the last minute to perfume a dish.
Gremolata is an Italian combination of parsley, garlic, lemon or orange zest and sometimes shallot that is traditionally used on braised veal shanks but is excellent sprinkled over rich seafood dishes, too.

Seafood and Herb Pairing

We recommend experimenting and following your own nose, taste and instincts in pairing herbs and seafood, but here are a few suggestions to get started. As many herbs and seafoods defy strict categorizing, there may be a few that overlap.

Sweet/Mild Seafood is often enhanced by an equally delicate herb. Choose herbs that are gentle, fresh-tasting and/or lightly pungent, such as chervil, chives, thyme, mint, basil, dill, fennel, parsley and small amounts of tarragon. Monkfish, Lingcod, Crab, Sole, Halibut, Shrimp, Skate, Lobster, Scallops, Haddock
Meaty/Robust Seafood will stand up to more peppery and assertive herbs. Try strong-flavored herb blends that my include marjoram, oregano, thyme, basil, lavender, tarragon, lovage, sage and even light amounts of rosemary. Grouper, Swordfish, Clams, Tuna, Sturgeon, Squid, Mahi Mahi, Shark, Shrimp
Rich/Buttery Seafoods are the most adaptable for pairing with fresh herbs. They work will with distinctive and pungent flavors such as dill, tarragon or sage, and are also complemented by peppery herbs such as marjoram, oregano, thyme and savory. Citrus-scented herbs are very good, too; try lemon thyme, cilantro, lemon balm or sorrel. Salmon, Bluefish, Trout, Arctic Char, Chilean Sea Bass, Black Cod, Sturgeon, Scallops

Herbs Worth Hunting For

Chervil—Delicate and lacy chervil adds a delightful aroma that is lightly licorice without the zeal of tarragon. Chervil is best used with milder seafood.
Fennel—The delicate dill-like fronds of fennel bulb have a mild licorice flavor, wonderful with baked fish and shellfish. But the seeds, sweet and anise-flavored (technically a spice), are the real treat. They are often used in fresh herb blends.
Lemon Balm—A member of the mint family that is used primarily in herbal teas, lemon balm combines the bright freshness of mint with lots of brilliant lemon flavor.
Lovage—This old-fashioned herb looks like large flat parsley leaves and tastes strongly of celery. It is very peppery and lingering, but a delicious fresh addition to simple whitefish recipes and seafood stews.
The Potherbs—These herbs aren’t as aromatic as most but are more flavorful than lettuce, spinach and other mild green. Potherbs were often cooked in colonial America and called “sallets,” a prelude to our green salads of today. They include arugula, purslane, sorrel, watercress and dandelion greens.
Savory—There are two varieties: summer savory and winter savory. Summer savory, a tender annual, is the more popular of the two. Winter savory is a slightly tougher perennial that has a stronger taste. Savory could be described as a cross between rosemary and thyme, both aromatic and peppery.
Sorrel—The large spinach-like leaves of sorrel belie its tart, lemony flavor. The mild flavor goes well with delicate and sweet seafood like sole, scallops or cod.

Herbs for Every Day

Basil—(peppery, floral) A wildly popular herb that is the base of pesto, basil is aromatic and peppery but still sweet. Basil is traditionally used in Italian and Mediterranean cooling and has a natural affinity for tomatoes, garlic and other foods that remind you of sunny vacations. Basil leaves are also a great addition to green salads.

Bay—(mild) Fresh bay leaves have a citrus scent and a natural spiciness reminiscent of nutmeg with a hint of evergreen flavor. Dried leaves add depth of flavor to almost any stewed or long-cooked dish and are an essential part of a bouquet garni, the classic bundle of herbs used for seasoning. Bay leaves should be used whole, or lightly torn, and removed after cooking.

Chives—(mildly pungent) A universal herb for seafood and herb blends, chives have a subtle oniony taste with the fresh flavor of parsley. Chives can be sprinkled generously over many a finished dish, not just baked potatoes.

Cilantro—(pungent) Also called coriander leaf of Chinese parsley, cilantro has a distinctive flavor with citrus tones and hints of sage and a little licorice. Although cilantro is reputed to be the most widely used herb in the world, it may also inspire the strongest culinary opinions—people either love it or hate it. Sometimes confused with Italian flat-leaf parsley, which looks similar, cilantro can be easily recognized by its distinctive lemony aroma.

Dill—(pungent) Distinctive and familiar, dill is probably the most recognized herb for fish. It works beautifully by itself, and, if fresh, can be used in large quantities. But the assertive flavor can sometimes be an overpowering and conflicting addition to herb blends, so mix it with care. Dill tastes best with the classic blending herbs such as chives, parsley and thyme.

Marjoram—(peppery, floral) Very closely related to oregano, marjoram has a little less spice. Its highly floral bouquet has a hint of mint. Still peppery and pungent, it adds a nice Mediterranean zing to seafood dishes and herb mixes.

Mint—(pungent, peppery) A wonderful fresh herb for fish, mint is often overlooked. Its candy-like aroma sometimes betrays its invigorating, complex flavor. Mint adds zest, freshness and a little mystery to fresh herb combinations.

Oregano—(peppery) Used widely in Italian, Greek and Mexican cooking, oregano has a strong, peppery and slightly wild flavor that can be overpowering and bitter in large amounts. Some herb aficionados clain that oregano is one of the few herbs than can taste better dries.

Parsley—(mild) Too often dismissed as a garnish rather than praised as a culinary berg, parsley is almost magical in its ability to add freshness and marry the flavors of a dish. A universally useful herb, it should be a kitchen staple. Flat-leaf, or “Italian,” parsley has a fresher, cleaner flavor than the traditional curly variety.

Rosemary—(pungent) Piney and robust, rosemary tastes just like it looks. Its aromatic needles add woodsy, wild flavor. A very strong herb with a bold taste, it can often overpower delicate seafood. Use rosemary in moderation or as a marinade component with more assertive fish and shellfish. It is great for grilled recipes.

Sage—(peppery) Fresh sage has a deep, rich, slightly mysterious aroma with a citrus kick that is best paired with hearty seafood. It adds complexity to fresh herb mixes and will boldly stand up to the distinctive flavors of tarragon, rosemary and oregano. Fresh sage bears little resemblance to the dried herb used once a year in Thanksgiving stuffing.

Tarragon—(pungent) Another classic fish herb, tarragon tastes like licorice and parsley with a hint of lemon. Tarragon’s assertive flavor can linger, so it should be used in moderation. An important component in French cooking, it is found in such classic mixes as fines herbes and herbes de Provence.

Thyme—(universal) Thyme is a true standard among herbs, with moderate pungency that makes it very adaptable, adding a deep herbal flavor and complexity to dishes. It has the scent of a glade of trees with added hints of lemon, mint and spice. The aromatic tiny leaves of thyme can be added, whole or chopped, without conflict to almost any herb blend. Lemon thyme is a delightful variety that has a distinct citrus flavor, a great complement to seafood.

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