Seafood Chili

It's been said that there are two kinds of people in the world: those who eat chili with beans, and those who eat it without. This distinction is too narrow for our taste, which favors seafood chili over any other kind. And where seafood chili is concerned, the critical ingredient is not beans, but mollusks. Some cooks are satisfied with the addition of clams alone, while others toss in scallops—followed by a range of other seafood that includes shrimp and fish of all kinds.

The origins of seafood chili are obscure and likely to stay that way, largely because chili purists are a passionate lot and can be dangerous when provoked. Making chili with seafood is a practice that purists regard with contempt, so credit for this dish is not something you'd want to claim unless you were prepared to deal with half the population of Texas calling for your head.

But purists are to be pitied for sticking so staunchly to principle when a practical taste test would tell them that this dish is delicious. Seafood blends well with chili's signature herbs and spices—garlic, onion, cumin, oregano, and various hot and sweet peppers—making something hearty and healthful served on its own, over rice, or inside tacos, enchiladas or burritos.

• Seafood Chili Recipe